How to Hijab: Tips for Buying & Wearing Over Garments

How to Hijab: Tips for Buying & Wearing Over Garments

In this section, we'll go over shopping and how you can find the best styles and cuts of over garments for your body type and in the office environment.

Practical Shopping Tips

Buying a jilbab or overgarment is going to be an experience and a half if you don't fit some sort of idealized body type (ie, if you are under or over five foot six inches tall, or weigh more than 100 lbs, or have short arms, etc.) Unless you or your husband has relatives overseas who can supply you with jilbab, you may have to shell out a lot of money for a garment that is of dubious quality. Alhamdulilah, since the mid-90's, there has been a massive upsurge in the number of online Islamic clothiers, many of them selling quality garments at reasonable prices.

Most jilbab and overgarments run in price from $45 up, with the average price being $65. A lot of the time, you will find yourself saying, "For what?" The prices are even higher if you are buying mail order, or live in an area with a small Muslim population (hence, less competition). Since this is a lot of money to be paying, you must really open your eyes and look carefully at what you are buying. Quality and comfort in fit are of the utmost importance.

Jilbab, Rapoosh

Material: Most jilbabs are polyester based: regular polyester (aka 70's style), peach skin, poly blends, or rayon. I recommend regular polyester jilbabs for the winter, and "peach skin" for summertime, and poly blends and rayon any time. Remember that jilbabs with lining are going to be hotter when you're wearing them. Don't hesitate to try on a jilbab when possible, and try to keep in mind what clothes you intend to wear underneath it.

There are a few cotton jilbab out there, but I don't recommend them for several reasons, the first being that they tend to be in very ugly colors and styles. The second is that they look shabby after a few washes, and they get wrinkled very easily. The only plus to them is that they are very cool in the summertime. Unless you see one in cotton that is really pretty, really nice, etc. pass it up. You can also get jilbabs in wool. Don't buy these unless you need a winter coat.

Styling: Jilbabs used to be notoriously ugly, but in since the mid-90's, we have seen a revolution of sorts in Islamic fashion. They may have embroidery, beading, lace, sequins and who knows what else all down the front, and another design on the back, or they may be plain with funky buttons or belt clasps on them. It often seems like the more plain and simple the jilbab, the more expensive it is. Fortunately, a lot of the ugliness on a jilbab can be covered up by your scarf or removed by hand. If you are looking for a simple jilbab, but can't afford the nicer ones, get one where the embroidery is the same color as the jilbab. Keep in mind that you will have to hand wash or dry clean the ones with elaborate beading or lacework.

Jilbabs used to come in a basic sack shape with a mandarin collar, snaps down the middle, and no pockets. However, you may now find them with Peter Pan collars, high collars, v-neck suit collars, zippers, pockets, novelty buttons, A-Line, straight shapes, with mock shells underneath, and so on. Most are single breasted, but some are double breasted. Try them on to make sure that they are loose fitting over your clothes and that they "match" your body shape. There are times when you'll find yourself wearing the same over garment several days in a row. Think about how this will look at work or school if you have a very distinctive overgarment.

Colors: It used to be that you could prett much only find jilbabs in black. Period. Those few that weren't black came in various shades of mustard, olive, drab, rust, and a bizarre shade of navy. However, in these past few years, colors have started to become more "fashionable" among Muslimas, and you can find jilbabs in beige, light grey, chocolate, all types of blue, lavender, dusty rose, sea green, and other colors. When shopping, don't forget to shop for your skin tone. Sisters with pinkish undertones may find that green or yellow jilbabs make them look ill.

Sizing: Most jilbabs run in European or Arab sizes. Generally, a "1" is for any sis under a size 12, a "2" is for those over size 12, a "3" is for those 18-24, and "4" and "5" are generally for 24 and up. These sizes are not standardized throughout the industry! (Even among manufacturers in the same country) You may wear a "2" in one brand and a "4" in another. Or you may wear a "2" in one style and a "4" in another style, even though both jilbabs are made by the same manufacturer. If you can't try it on, make sure you can return it. You might also see sizes like "56". Again, these sizes are not always standardized either. Ask the sales person what the conversion is and if they don't know, then just go ahead and try it on (with regular clothes underneath, not another overgarment or jacket). In almost 100% of cases, you will find that when the jilbab has a "mandarin" collar, the collar is too small to button at your neck. You can ignore that, since your scarf will cover that part anyway.

Shop For Your Body Type: In general, it is important to keep in mind that while the jilbab is supposed to be loose enough to hide your curves and attributes, it should not be so loose that you look like you are swimming in fabric, or have trouble moving around. It should be loose enough to wear over a dress or a shirt and pair of pants. If possible, try the jilbab on over a regular outfit, and raise your arms over your head, to ensure that there is enough give for everyday movements in the arms. Stride back and forth to make sure that the closure in the front gives you enough room to climb stairs, run, and walk.

Sisters who aren't 5'6" and thin (ie, most of us) may find that they have problems fitting jilbabs. If you are under 5'6" tall, you will probably have to have the sleeves and hem of the jilbab altered. Keep this in mind, and add the cost of tailoring to the price when considering a jilbab.

Sisters who are over 5'6" may have trouble finding a jilbab that reaches to their ankles. You may want to shop for "Bakistani" jilbabs, which are jilbabs that are either closed or opened halfway in the front and come with matching pants. Or, you can find a pair of pants that matches the color of the jilbab and make your own "Bakistani" style. Although bigger sized jilbabs tend to be longer, keep in mind that they will also be wider.

In the past few years, the Islamic clothing industry has started to design and make available a larger variety of jilbabs for plus sized sisters. Heavier sisters will want to avoid jilbabs in brighter colors, and stick with pale pastels, neutrals, or dark colors (but be aware that some darker colors may make you look like a walking vegetable). You may also want to avoid jilbabs with elaborate embroidery or work down the front, on the shoulders, or anywhere near your waist and hips. You will also find that A-Line jilbabs and / or jilbabs with pleats near the shoulders or chest area are more comfortable and better looking than those without. In general, plus size sisters should avoid the "suit style" jilbabs, as they tend to be snug in the chest and hip areas. Sizes 4 and 5 in most jilbabs are for very heavy set sisters. If you wear less than an American size 24/26, you will find that jilbabs in these sizes overwhelm your frame, and do not hang well.

Pregnant sisters will want to look for A-line jilbabs or jilbabs with pleats near the shoulders or chest. Nursing sisters will find that some styles of jilbab have mock "vest" panels sewn in, and that nursing slits can be cut into the bottom layer without disturbing the look of the jilbab or exposing your clothing underneath.

Shop for Quality: When purchasing a jilbab, there are a few factors to consider: What type of fabric is it made of? Is the fabric too delicate to be washed in a machine? Will the cost of dry cleaning or the time spent hand washing it be more trouble than it is worth?

Carefully inspect the hems at the collar, arm pits, wrists, and the button panel or near the zipper. If you see many loose threads, or they appear frayed, avoid it. The stitches should be close together, and strong enough to pull slightly.

Check the buttons both at the wrists, and down the front. The button holes should be large enough to easily open and close, but not so large that the buttons are constantly coming undone. This is a common problem on most jilbabs, and you may end up fixing the button holes at home. Some sisters completely sew up the button panel, and leave open only the buttons that go to the waist. Make sure the buttons are attached firmly. Loose buttons are another big problem, and if the jilbab has unique or funky buttons, you may find it difficult or impossible to replace lost ones. This is also true for buttons whose color exactly matches the jilbab you are purchasing.

If you live in a very dusty environment, consider how easy it will be to get out dirt and dust stains from the fabric. If you live in a wet environment, think about how the fabric and color will hold up in the rain and / or snow. Some fabrics stain easily, and you will find removing the stains to be impossible.

In my experience shopping for, and buying jilbabs, I have found that the best brands, for style and quality, come from Turkey and Jordan. They may seem pricier, but considering that their garments are of higher quality and hold up much better in the laundry, the higher price is worth it. In both companies, design houses are experimenting with new styles of over garments, coming out with styles that are funky, professional, whimsical, dressy, and even romantic.

Abaya

Material: When buying an abaya, try to find out where it was manufactured and what the material is. Some are silk, most are polyester or rayon. You're going to want polyester or rayon. One good thing about abayas is that they are generally so flowing, and so lightweight, that they don't wrinkle, and rarely need ironing.

Styling: The traditional abaya of the Gulf is a shapeless black garment with small armholes, and a slightly delineated neckline (or no neckline at all). It is worn over the head (over the scarf and the jilbab). Other traditional styles are worn from the shoulders. Traditional styles do not have fasteners, and must be held together in the hand or pinned together. One major disadvantage to traditional abayas is that you will find it difficult to move around in them, and impossible to drive.

The new styles of abaya come in several different styles. One style has velcro closures at the shoulders. Open abayas are regular garments with delineated sleeves and a neckline, but they are open except for a tie or button closure at chest level. Closed abayas look almost like dresses. They are completely closed, except for buttons or a zipper from the neck to the waist. All of these new styles make it easy to move around, and you can drive in them.

New style abayas range from utilitarian and plain to very fancy and heavily detailed. Even the plain ones tend to have some type of trim (usually velvet) at the sleeves or neckline. Some modern abayas come with matching shals. In general, try to avoid the modern abayas with heavy beadwork, or unusual detailing, unless you are going to a wedding or other special occasion. For a funky look, you might want to check out the abayas with "peek-a-boo" panels: panels of material in the hem, sleeves, and / or bodice in bright colors.

Colors: Traditional abayas come basically in one color: black (although I have seen white and grey ones). The bulk of modern abayas come in black as well. However, you can find modern abayas in every color of the rainbow.

Sizing: Traditional abayas come in one size: fits all. Modern abayas run on the same sizes as jilbabs; that is, no standard. Most abayas feature sizes like "52," and "56," while others have the "1," "2," "3" sizes. As with jilbabs, you are going to want to try it on when possible, and make sure it is returnable when it isn't possible. Different cuts of abayas mean that you may wear different sizes, even from the same manufacturer. Again, lift your hands over your head to make sure that the sleeves fit comfortably. In some styles of abayas, particularly the closed ones, you will find that it is a tight fit if you wear a dress or shirt underneath.

Most abaya are dreadfully long and if you are under 5'6", you will have to get it hemmed. If you are no good at sewing, take it to be done professionally, as most abayas (a) have piping or trim at the bottom (b) are shaped irregularly and harder to sew on an even line. The good news for tall sisters is that abayas are generally intended to be worn over jilbabs or over clothes, so that if your skirt or pants peek out a little bit at the bottom, it's okay.

Shop for Your Body Type: The good news about traditional abayas is that their free flowing shape means that they are a good fit for just about everyone. Only very petite or short sisters should think twice before purchasing one, as smaller sisters may look like they are a child playing dress up in a traditional abaya.

The bad news about modern abayas is that they seem to be designed mainly for thinner sisters. Sisters who are more amply endowed may have trouble finding open or closed abayas that drape loosely and comfortably across the chest or hips. Shoulder closing abayas tend to be very loose fitting, although some may be tight across the hip area.

Open style abayas are a great buy for pregnant sisters. Shoulder closing abayas and closed abayas (if the opening goes to the waist) are good for breastfeeding moms.

Shop for Quality: When looking at a traditional abaya, pay attention to the piping or trim at the hems, wrists, and across the neck / shoulder line. It should not be loose or hanging off. There should be no loose threads. There should be no pulls or runs anywhere in the material.

When looking at a modern abaya, consider some of the following details: Velcro closures should be sewn on firmly. Try it on and make sure that the closure is not too close to your neck or face. Having velcro rub against your face all day is very annoying. Buttons should be sewn on tightly, and the button holes should be big enough to allow you to do them up easily, but not so big that they slip out while you are walking around. If this is the case, you can sew up the button hole yourself. Zippers should be sewn in well, and the bottom of the zipper should not be showing. Zip it up and down a few times to make sure that the zipper doesn't get caught in any piping or trim. Tie closures should be long enough to make a bow, and should be firmly attached. They should not be frayed.

Thobes, Caftans

Material: Thobes and caftans range from cotton to polyester to silk or brocade. Which type you buy depends on what you want the thobe for. If you need something comfortable but modest for the house, consider cotton or polyester. If you need something for a wedding or holiday, then look at the embroidered polyesters or silks and broacades.

Styling & Colors: Most thobes and caftans tend to be cut on a very straight and boxy line. This means that they will not work for all body types. Still, you can buy smocked thobes, and thobes or caftans on an A-Line. They come in all colors.

The most commonly available thobes in the United States are polyesters with metallic embroidery on the bodice and the wrists. They are over-the-head. Another style of thobe found in the States is the smocked thobe in polyester or velvet, with a zipper opening to chest level. These thobes feature machine embroidery on the yoke.

The most famous style of thobes is the Palestinian / Jordanian heirloom thobe. They are very expensive ($300), take a long time to make, and are difficult to have custom made outside of Palestine and Jordan. Because of the time involved in embroidering one, they are passed on from mother to daughter as heirlooms, and may be embroidered on panels that can be removed and added to another thobe as the woman's body changes shapes over her lifetime. You may be able to buy a "used" one in Palestine or Jordan. More likely, you can buy a machine embroidered one. It isn't as "special" but they are much, much cheaper, immediately available, and convey the same "aura." Palestinian ones come in black, white, or light blue, and feature multi-colored floral embroidery at the bodice, wrists, down the sides, and around the hem. They are also worn with a rainbow colored belt. Another style of Palestinian heirloom thobe is alternating velvet panels (one solid, one patterned or embossed) cut on a straight line. It may feature some ribbon embroidery. Jordanian heirloom thobes come in black or white, and usually feature red emboirdery in abstract Arabesques or floral patterns at the bodice, wrists, down the sides, and hem. The most highly prized style of Jordanian heirloom thobe is black with red embroidery covering the entire dress. They may also be worn with a belt. Another style of Jordanian heirloom thobe is a thick polyester done with metallic ribbon work, usually stripes, with ribbon embroidery or other decorative work at the bodice and wrists.

Caftans are extremely comfortable garments that enjoyed some popularity in the 60's and 70's in the States (sometimes lumped together under the category of "muumuus"). Sleeves are slightly flared at the ends. They can be worn with or without a fabric or coin belt at the waist. While many think of caftans as comfortable lounging garments, there are caftans made of silk and broacade, or polyester caftans that feature very heavy bead and sequin work over the entire body of the dress. Although caftans are hard to find in the States, you can find a "simple and easy" pattern for a caftan in Vogue's pattern books.

You should be aware that a Muslim woman would never be seen in the type of thobe (dishdash) we see men in Saudi Arabia or other countries wearing. It may look like a dress to our eyes, and may look comfortable, but it is a distinctly masculine garment.

Sizing: Some thobes are "one size fits all," although curvier sisters may have a hard time finding one that really does fit. Other thobes come in those non-standardized sizes used in the Islamic clothing industry. See if you can try it on in the store, and if you can't, make sure you can return it. Pay close attention to how the thobe fits across your chest, and hips, and make sure you can raise your arms comfortably.

Shop For Your Body Type: Because many thobes are cut on a straight, boxy line, curvier sisters will find that the thobe describes too much of their body. If you are a plus sized woman, you might want to look for A-Line or smocked thobes. Pregnant sisters should do the same. Nursing women will find that thobes don't work at all, since they are completely closed in the front.

Shop for Quality: Some thobes are very high quality, and some are very poor quality. It is important to check all of the seams, especially under the arms, when buying a thobe. If you are buying one with embroidery work, check for loose threads on the inside and outside of the garment. Too many loose threads is a bad sign, but one or two is okay. You will also want to check the width of the neck hole. Sometimes, the opening is (oddly) not wide enough to fit your head through. If there is embroidery or beading around the neck, you will not be able to have this altered.

Baju Kerung

Material: Baju kerung can be simple cotton garments, or beautiful silk garments. The most commonly available ones are polyester / rayon blends. One plus about baju kerungs is that they are manufactured with hot, muggy climates in mind, and so are not made with heavy fabrics that don't breathe.

Styling & Colors: Baju kerung, simply, looks great on everyone. The long, knee or calf length tunic and ankle length skirt are simple, elegant, feminine, and professional. They tend to be simple, devoid of beading, embroidery, etc., although some may have frog closures on the shoulder. Baju kerung commonly comes in brightly colored floral patterns, although some are solids, or have abstract patterns.

Sizing & Shopping for Your Body Type: Because baju kerung are manufactured for SE Asian people, tall sisters and plus size sisters may have a hard time finding one that fits. However, this does not mean that it is impossible. Women who wear up to an American size 24 may be able to find a baju kerung that fits comfortably and modestly.

Although baju kerung tend to be cut on a straight or slightly flared line, the fabric flows so that even curvy sisters will find that it fits well without describing the shape of the body. Baju kerung should not be tight at the hips or tug at the neck or chest area. Make sure you can lift your arms comfortably. Pregnant sisters may want to avoid baju kerung in the last months of pregnancy, and nursing sisters may find lifting up the entire tunic (they are closed in front) to be a hassle.

Shop for Quality: As with any regular dress or skirt and blouse set, you're going to want to examine the seams, especially around the under arms. Consider the cost of dry cleaning if you are looking at a dressier version of baju kerung. Zips, buttons, and clasps on the skirt should be sewn on firmly with no loose threads.

What To Wear To Work

Sisters who work may find that jilbab is the most appropriate for the office place. Abayas can be too "fussy," and thobes, djellaba, and salwar kameez are too "ethnic." Baju kerung may also be appropriate, in muted or toned down colors and patterns, and there may be some salwar kameez which can work (or an elegant kameez worn with a skirt).

In general, you should stick to somber colors (navy, black, or grey) or light pastels for the office place. Avoid jilbabs with fancy work at the bodice, shoulders, and wrists. Jilbabs with Peter Pan or v-neck suit collars are perfect for professional environments, as are "Bakistani" jilbabs.

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